I have been thinking a lot since I got by to Toronto about three weeks ago. I had a really good time on my visit to Portugal, it just became really clear that it isn’t the place I would want to live when I retire.
Setúbal was a really cute city. It had a lot of the things that I was looking for, but I could really see myself getting bored there. I loved all the public art, that it was right on the water and had lots of nature near by. There was also culture right in the city with local galleries and a theatre with performances. It just really felt like the streets got brought in early in the evening. Trying to run there was a bit brutal. Lots of hills and while really pretty the cobblestones did a real number on my legs.
As part of the scouting visit I took a day over to Troia. While I wasn’t overly surprised it was pretty much boarded up for the off season. The walk around the beach area was great. The other walk was closed off for some maintenance and upgrades. I could see it getting really busy in the summer season.
One of the things on my checklist for a place to live is that it is close to a larger city, within an hour of an airport. To check this out I took a day trip into Lisbon. The train got me into the city under an hour and with a quick transfer to the metro I got to Time Out Lisbon to my favourite restaurant there. I also managed to grab some pastel de nata, because why not.
The trip back to Setúbal was a little more harrowing. The train was jam packed the entire way and people we’re acting like it was every person for themselves shoving and pushing. It honestly was what I imagine taking the Go Train in Toronto during rush hour is like. Not a good look.
When I headed back to Lisbon to stay for three nights, I stayed in Ajuda. It’s situated between Alcântara and Belém and is a very residential and more typical Portuguese area. I really liked the area and the feel. There were lots of shops and cafes but transportation was really limited- bus and old trams. I got stuck on a tram for 15 minutes while two tradesmen tied stuff to the top of a cube van. It was a lasting and not great impression that reminded me of getting stuck on streetcars here in Toronto.
On thing that I did there that I highly recommend is a food walking tour by Oh! My Cod. It was a great experience of authentic, local food that told the story of three neighbourhoods. My favourite place was the stop at A Muralha Tapas e Vinhos. I finally tasted octopus and really enjoyed it and the chorizo that was set on fire in the special dish was amazing. The guide Baptiste also had great history lessons of Lisbon along the way. I strongly recommend taking one of their tours if you go.
I did like that it was within walking distance of the LX Factory and its Sunday market. Although, there was really anything new at the market from the time I visited in October. It was also about a 20 minute walk down to Belém’s the beautiful parks and waterfront. I ended up going for a run there and again with the cobblestones except where there were bike paths that make it easier. I managed to get a full 10K in for the first time since arriving in Portugal.
On Sunday I came back to watch the changing of the guard and the presidential palace. I mean, who doesn’t like a bit of pomp and pagentry on their weekend. I especially liked that they had dogs, although one German Shepard barked through the whole thing, especially when the horses showed up.
On my last night there I spent time reflecting, could I really see myself living here and the answer we no. That’s not meant to take anything away from Portugal or Lisbon, it’s just not the right place.
