This post is long overdue, I was actually in Sevilla in July. This was my third time visiting what many refer to as the most beautiful city in Spain.
All three times I have been to the city I have stayed in La Macarena neighbourhood. I love its mix of history and character, the great culture and restaurants. There are also lots of grocery stores and a public market which appealed to me since my plan was to live like a local.
It’s also really close to downtown, but away from all the touristy places. The people are also very friendly – but there was some guiri go home graffiti this time.
Seville is an amazingly walkable city and it was amazing to walk around all the monuments again. As long as you get out early in the day. By noon the temperatures where in the 30s and by mid-afternoon they reached the low to mid-40s. It was great to be able to go have some lunch and then head back to my AirBNB for a siesta until things cooled off in the evenings.
One of my favourite places in Seville is the Real Alcazar. I visited for the first time in 2021. It’s a mix of history, architecture as well as Moorish and Spanish culture and the oldest working palace in Europe.
My visit this time was different in that it was a small group and a theatrical performance that takes you through the history. This year’s night performance is focused on the women of the Alcazar. A great and different way to see this important monument.
Another advensure was a little off the beaten path, in fact it was to the roofs of the Seville cathedral. Amazing history of how the cathedral was built and fantastic views of the city. It was very strange to be in the cathedral when it wasn’t packed with tourists.There was a quick stop at the tomb of Christopher Columbus (not a fan, but a key part of history).
To beat the heat, one day I jumped on a train to see Cadiz, the oldest continuously inhabited city anywhere, founded by the Phoenicians in 1100 BCE. There was lots of amazing architecture, gardens, beach in the centre of the city, and much cooler than Sevilla given it is on the Atlantic, not the Mediterranean. So much culture and good food. Well worth the visit for a day trip.
Another day I took a trip to Cordoba, a city I didn’t spend enough time in when I visited in 2021. It has a mix of Roman, Moorish and Spanish culture and history and is only an hour away from Sevilla by high speed train. I was thrilled to get to visit the Mezquita again with its stunning mix of Moorish and Spanish architecture and it was nice and cool inside.
I did cut the trip short when the temperature hit 42° and the train I changed to was cancelled. There was only one thing to do – cool off with some gelato.
It was a really amazing experience spending time in Sevilla living as a local, but it became really clear that the heat is unbearable in the summer – which is starting earlier and ending later every year from the effects of climate change. As much as I love the city I am not sure it would be livable for me in the long run.
I took the train down to Málaga to catch my first flight for the long trek home and could hear it calling my name. There’s still about 18 months to decide. No rush.
I had stop overs in Ireland both ways on this trip. It was great to spend some time in Dublin again. Appreciated some cooler weather after being in the frying pan of Europe.
